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Only A Surfer Knows The Feelin
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There is a guy from Hawaii that I know. Every day, he wakes up, straps his surfboards to the racks on top of his car, drives his car from a town called Ewa, across the island of Oahu, to a little beach known as Ala Moana Beach Park. He does all of this even before the sun comes up. He spends a few minutes just looking at the ocean, watching and ....
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.... job seems to be, this man is one of the mellowest guys that I know. When asked why he does this morning ritual every day, he said, “surfing helps keep me focused”. And I believe him.
Think about it for a moment, each time a surfer goes to a beach, waxes up his board, and surveys the waves from the shore, he is preparing to go into the water t.... |
| Word count: 1298 |
Page count: 5 |
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